Denim
The denim industry is considered as being one of the most resource-intensive parts of the fashion industry as it is known for its high water use during manufacturing and being particularly chemical-intensive during the dyeing and washing stages. At M&S, we recognise that denim manufacturing and garment washing have a huge amount of potential for improved resource efficiency and reduced environmental impact. We know our customers want style, quality and value with sustainability built in as standard. That’s why we’re doing our bit to make sure M&S denim products are set up for a more sustainable future.
Our Approach
In 2021, we launched our most sustainable denim range yet, using *100% responsibly sourced cotton and using Jeanologia’s Environmental Impact Measurement (EIM) platform to benchmark our denim products against the EIM criteria. We've also replaced standard indigo dyes with alternatives that are more resource efficient.
We work with our suppliers to ensure that all M&S branded denim garments are developed and manufactured according to our M&S Sustainable Denim Principles. These principles outline our sustainability key performance indicators, and the initiatives M&S are applying in the manufacturing of denim garments to reduce the impact on the environment.
*100% responsibly sourced cotton refers to our Responsible Cotton Sourcing Policy. The cotton we source is either through our partnership with Better Cotton, is organic or recycled.
The objectives for our *Sustainable Denim Principles are:
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To ensure M&S improves the environmental impact of its denim products.
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To lay out a set of uniform principles around the development of denim product that will need to be adhered to by all business units consistently.
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To measure the environmental impact score (EIM) of every garment wash process – this is done by laundries uploading data to the EIM platform created by Jeanologia.
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To ensure due diligence is undertaken with regards to the validation of fabric dyeing methods, garment wash processes and environmental impact scores.
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To ensure M&S can substantiate any marketing claims for products.
These guiding principles set out that all denim products should be developed to:
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Cotton must be sourced according to the M&S Responsible Cotton Sourcing Policy.
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Minimise the use of water per piece
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Use less or lower impact chemicals
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Utilise new technology in fabric dyeing and garment washing
*Sustainable is referred to internally in relation to the title of our 'Sustainable Denim Principles'
Our Partners
To standardise the process of collecting wash data from our denim laundries, we use a platform developed by Jeanologia called the Environmental Impact Measurement (EIM) Software.
Jeanologia and EIM Scores
EIM is a standardised industry-wide system used to compare environmental impact data for denim washes. This software measures the wash’s impact across four environmental impact areas: Water, Energy, Chemicals and Worker Impact.
All laundries supplying to M&S are required to subscribe to EIM and undergo training and accreditation by Jeanologia. To establish an EIM score, the laundry enters data about the denim wash process on the EIM platform which includes the quantity of water used, temperature, time, and chemicals. EIM scores are then submitted to M&S for approval.
The EIM software considers how the product is performing based on the four environmental impact areas. A score of 33 or less is ranked ‘Green’ meaning the wash has a low environmental impact.
Use of the tool offers complete transparency of the wash process and gives M&S an opportunity to drive the adoption of more resource-efficient washing.
Our Sustainable Denim Principles
Read hereResource-efficient dyeing
The process for dyeing denim fabrics uses high levels of water, energy, and chemicals. Developments in chemistry mean that there are improved indigo dyestuffs on the market which significantly reduce dyeing time, energy and water consumption and chemical use.
M&S are committed to phasing out the use of standard powdered indigo dyes, converting to pre-reduced indigo, which is a cleaner and more resource-efficient dyestuff – as it requires less water, less hydrosulphite, and less energy in the dyeing process.
All fabric mills must operate in compliance with the M&S Environment and Chemical policy (ECP) which outlines the strict chemical policy adopted by M&S including the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) and the UK and EU REACH standards for chemical compliance.
Garment processing
After sewing, all denim garments are washed at an industrial laundry to give them a softer handle, adjust the colour level, and apply fashion effects. These finishing processes can use high levels of water and involve labour-intensive methods to distress garments.
Innovative technologies and chemical advances mean that resource-efficient wash processes are more widely available and can be applied to volume production. The laundries that we work with use the latest machinery with water saving devices that lower liquor ratios (water per kg garments).
We have eliminated the use of potassium permanganate (PP) spray, which provides fashion fade effects, we’re replacing its use with either laser or lower-impact chemical sprays.
The use of new technology has positive impacts on water and chemical use as well as reducing worker impact. We are encouraging the adoption of hands-free laser processes in place of hand sanding, brushing, and spraying.